Extra edition 1 How to choose a suit in business
Recently I had the opportunity to meet new members of society and received consultation “Where to go for business clothes how to do” in the story.
This time I would like to talk about how to choose a suit in the business scene and the contents related to them.
We are assuming general business situations to the last.
It depends on the workplace and environment.
How to choose leather shoes is explained here .
The way to put a perfume in the business scene is described here.
I would like to talk about watches on different occasions.
Fine, because the story gets longer. . .
The role of a suit in a business scene
The role of the suit in the business scene is very big.
Simply put, battle clothing in society .
Especially when you do not know that the role of a suit in men knows how to dress largely depends on how it is handled.
People who are meeting regularly may not have much relationship with clothes, but the first time people meet will image the impression of the other person in the first 5 seconds.
Moreover, it is said that it takes more than 100 hours to reverse that image.
Therefore, the initial appearance is very important.
If you are wearing a suit in business in any usual way, you will be regarded as educated as a society .
This is common in the world.
Even if you are a foreigner, you can understand immediately if you have experienced as a social worker to a certain extent.
Even if you do not have experience with social workers, you can think that it is “a firm atmosphere.”
Even if I can start from tomorrow, I would like everyone to do what I learned from here, if possible.
How to choose a suit
As a way to choose a suit, I will talk about it in the following flow.
· Suit color
· Pattern of suit
· Suit size
Suit type
Every suit seems the same, but it is somewhat different.
Still no matter about the suit type, there is no problem.
Male
There are the following types as base.
· Style type
Style types include British style, Italian style, American style and so on.
From the left British style, Italian style, American style
Below is a list of simple differences.
| Features | British style | Italian style | American style |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shoulder making | Shaped shape | Gentle curve | Gentle curve |
| V-zone | shallow | deepening | deepening |
| Waist restriction | Increase aperture position | Lower aperture position | Smaller aperture |
| button position | increase | lower | lower |
It will be decided by the manufacturer, but there are many Italian style in Japan.
· Button placement
Button arrangement has single suits and double suit.
A single suit is a suit whose buttons are arranged in one straight line.
Double suit is a suit with buttons in two rows.
It becomes as follows.
Single suit: standard in business
Double suit: giving a more formal impression, relatively many elderly in business scene
· number of buttons
There are two buttons, three buttons, four buttons or more buttons in the number of buttons.
* There is one button, but it is not used in business.
It becomes as follows.
Two buttons: current classic, young · behavioral impression
Three buttons: classic, classical, serious impression a long time ago
Four buttons or more: Not much in the business scene.
– Number of pieces
There are two pieces and three pieces in the number of pieces.
Source：www.amazon.co.jp
The difference is as follows.
2 piece: jacket, pants
3 piece: jacket, vest, pants
The best is added for 3 pieces.
Basically it will not only be a shirt in public in business.
You can expand the range of wearing methods by combining the best.
There are other types of collar (lapel) and vent (break of the butt portion), etc, but you will like it.
As it is almost irrelevant as a business scene, I will skip it.
If you are interested please check it.
In the case of men, any type listed here can be worn in the business scene.
A slight impression will change depending on industry type, workplace and environment.
If you can not select it absolutely, I painted the current general in Japan with yellow .
Please try it.
| style type | button arrangement | button number | piece number |
|---|---|---|---|
| British style | Single suit | Two | Two pieces |
| Italian style | double suit | three | three pieces |
| American style | – | 4 or more | – |
Women
The types of women’s suit vary widely.
Also, unlike men’s suits, there are many parts that are tolerant of how to dress in the business scene.
Conversely, It’s better to change how you dress depending on the situation .
– Difference in impression of skirt and pants
It becomes as follows.
· Skirt: femininity, intellectual impression
· Pants: impressions of active people
Let’s change it according to the image.
When purchasing 3 pieces of “jacket, skirt, pants” the range expands.
In the case of women, the range of how to dress is wide, so please take a look at the reference level.
The variety of suit is diverse. Regardless of type, there is no problem.
color of suit
Navy (Navy, Navy Blue), Gray (Gray)
I often see black (black) suits in job hunting, but basically they are not worn in business.
Source：www.amazon.co.jp
As an impression of color
Navy color: classic as a business, calm, sincere, intelligent impression
Gray: a gentle impression, a harmonious or elegant impression
Let’s change it according to occupation.
The color of the female business suits is relatively tolerant than men.
Basically it is gray and dark blue, but bright colors such as beige do not have any problem in places that produce glamor.
The color is dark blue, gray. Women are bright even in gorgeous sceneries OK
Pattern of suit
plain, striped
Basically the pattern of the suit in the business scene is plain, stripe only.
The type of stripe is irrelevant
Chalk stripe: stripe pattern as written in white chalk
Pin stripes: Striped stripe pattern with thin lines
Such
As an impression of color
Plain: Standard as a business
Stripe: youthful, stylish
Be careful when you stripe, let’s not make the handle itself conspicuous.
Avoid colored stripes themselves that are thick and as far as possible.
The pattern of the suit is plain, striped only. Stripe is to make the handle inconspicuous.
Suit size
If the size is too large with jacket or pants, vertical wrinkles come out, and if it is too small, side wrinkles will come out.
The size that you must pay special attention is below.
· Jacket
Male: Shoulder width, stomach, dress length
Women: shoulder width, chest, dress length
Both men and women, the most important in the jacket is the shoulder width.
If the shoulder width does not match, comfort wears and the silhouette is not good.
Next, it is difficult for lateral wrinkles to appear if men are hungry, women have a little room to be conscious of the size of the chest.
· Pants, skirts
Male waist, inseam
Women are waist, inseam
Let pants and skirts afford a little more than perfect, especially around the waist.
Attention points in dimension confirmation (appearance) in trying on are below.
Male
· Vertical wrinkle and side wrinkle do not appear
· A shirt from the collar is about 1 cm
· The shirt from the cuff is about 1 cm
· Length of about half hiding ass
– The length of the pants is about half cushion (length to touch the instep of the shoe)
Women
· Vertical wrinkle and side wrinkle do not appear
· Make shirts and blouses from cuffs invisible.
· Basic, Length enough for hips to be hidden half (Choose a location, but it is also possible in short length)
– The length of the pants is about half cushion (length to touch the instep of the shoe)
· When you want to appeal honesty such as job hunting, the skirt is about 5 cm above knee when you sit (about 5 cm below the knee) where the knee is hidden.
· When you want to appeal to femininity skirts are tight, you can emphasize your feet if you make your knees ~ a little above your knees.
Avoid vertical wrinkles and sideways wrinkles. Slight differences in the size of the suit in men and women
I am talking about suit in the business, but I think that there are opportunities to meet business partners, bosses and colleagues at the time of vacation.
Even so, it becomes a book in which how to dress uniforms that are at first glance is written.
Please also refer to this.
ホントに誰でもすぐできる！はずさない男の私服コーデ術（１）会社でのBBQなどの野外イベント編
How to choose a shirt
As a way to choose shirts, I will talk about it in the following flow.
· Shirt color
· Shirt pattern
· Shirt size
About shirt
Please listen here for shirts as men shirt, women as shirt or blouse.
Shirts are the same as underwear.
Originally pocket is not attached, and there is no short sleeve.
For that reason, when you go out to people you should wear basically a jacket even when it is hot.
Shirt type
There are no shirts other than long sleeves in business.
I wrote down notes on shirts by other gender.
Male
In the case of men, collar (color) has a little attention besides long sleeves.
· Stop shirt with button on collar (button down shirt).
· Choose semi-wide color or wide color
In the case of button-down shirts, how to dress is difficult and the casual impression becomes stronger due to the length of the collar.
By putting semi-wide color and wide color, you can fit the collar to the jacket and the best.
The one who put the collar’s tip looks beautiful in dress.
However, let’s stop it because it becomes a casual impression if it is a horizontally oriented color with a wider angle.
Women
In the case of women, there are shirts and blouses, but please distinguish them properly.
· Shirt: Formal
· Blouse: casual than shirt
Choose a long sleeve shirt. Women use shirts and blouses differently.
Color of shirt
Except for white or light light blue, it is not suitable for business.
As I said in “About shirts”, it is similar to underwear.
Give impression of purity, innocence, cleanliness .
If it is dirty it stands out, let’s keep it clean.
The color of the shirt is white or light blue color
shirt pattern
Let’s not stand out.
If it is inconspicuous, there is no particular problem.
Therefore, if it is a pattern of the same color as the shirt, there is no problem.
Stop prominent patterns. If you want to put a handle the same color
Shirt size
Like the jacket, select vertical size wrinkle, horizontal wrinkle less likely size.
Also adjust the amount that comes out from the cuffs according to the jacket.
Male
· Vertical wrinkle and side wrinkle are difficult to appear size
· The neckline contains about 2 fingers
· A shirt from the cuff of the jacket is about 1 cm
· The back side of the shirt chooses longer (degree to reach the bottom side of the butt)
Women
· Vertical wrinkle and side wrinkle are difficult to appear size
· Make shirts and blouses not visible from cuffs of jacket
· The back side of the shirt chooses longer (degree to reach the bottom side of the butt)
Longer behind the shirt is to keep the shirt from coming back when sitting.
Similarly to the jacket, select vertical size wrinkle and side wrinkle less size
How to choose a tie
I will only talk about men, but since the tie is also important, I would like to explain.
As a way to choose a tie, I will talk about it in the following flow.
· Color of necktie
· A handle of a tie
About ties
The necktie symbolizes personality, and the impression transmitted to the opponent changes slightly depending on the color and pattern of the tie.
That is because colors and impressions overlap as many people come in contact with colors in their lives.
Therefore, the tie is like a meter representing the state of that person outside .
Let’s replace it in the situation, the environment, the position.
Tie size
Tie the necktie from the dimensions of the jacket
The left shows the width of the lower collar (lapel) of the jacket and the right shows the width of the thick tie (big sword).
Let’s wear the width of the necktie (big sword) width close to the width of the jacket’s lower collar (lapel).
This tie matched tie is well balanced with the jacket and you can see it firmly.
When purchasing a necktie, consider purchasing it as much as possible.
Attach a tie to the belt so that it strikes the belt
You can balance it if you attach a tie to the belt.
Although it will be slightly different depending on the length of the necktie, please use it as a guide.
Width close to the lapel of the jacket, attaching the tip so as to be attached to the belt
color of necktie
A tie can purchase a variety of colors.
Among them, there is a better color that you had in business first.
It is “blue type” and “red type”.
それぞれ最低１本ずつ持ってください。
Blue series: calm, intelligence
Red Series: Passion, Leadership,
Therefore, the blue series can be seen in a scene to explain business or calm.
Red type is used in scenes that explain with leadership or passion.
I compiled the impression of color in Japan.
| color system | impression | Usage example |
|---|---|---|
| Blue | Calmness / Intelligence | Scene showing business · coolness |
| red | passionate, active, leadership | scenes to be heated |
| Pink color | Soft / lovely / gentle | Scene where you want to emphasize kindness |
| Orange | Freedom, warmth, wisdom | Scenes showing a position not captured |
| Yellow | Happiness, lightness, casual | scene to be amended |
| green | Nature · peace · cooperation | scene to mediate / neutral |
| purple | elegance / mystery | scene to claim elegance |
The way colors are captured also varies from country to country, but basically blue and red can be used with the same impression.
If you do not understand how to catch color when visiting abroad, let’s use blue series and red series.
Of course, we do not use black · white with a necktie in business scene.
Change the impression given to your opponent by color-coordinating the necktie
Pattern of a necktie
There are solid color, stripes, small pattern (Paisley).
Basically, other patterns are difficult to handle in business, so let’s avoid it.
solid color
Source：www.fairfax-collective.com
どんな場でも使用できる万能な柄です。
色の印象を最も強く出します。
Stripe
There are British type and American style in the stripe.
Source(right)：www.fairfax-collective.com
The shape of “/” on the left is called British type, the form of “\” on the right is called American type.
There are many British type in Japan.
Stripes do not have a formal impression.
The way to catch patterns changes depending on the country.
Also, in Europe, it is not preferred because it used a stripe wide tie as belonging.
· Komon (Paisley)
Source：www.fairfax-collective.com
A pattern from a dot to a small circle.
Small prints are arranged at equal intervals, and large circles (about 5 mm or larger) patterns are not called small prints (paisley).
I tried put together the impression of the pattern.
| pattern | impression |
|---|---|
| plain | Formal, strongly impresses color impression |
| stripe | youthfulness, momentum |
| Komon pattern | Formal, sincere, serious |
The combination of color and pattern determines the impression given to the opponent.
The handle changes the impression that is supplementally given to the opponent in combination with the color
Manners are also important in business as an impression given to the opponent.
The following books are easy to understand as one book. Please try it if you do not mind.
入社1年目ビジネスマナーの教科書
What do I do after all?
Is the suit ready made? Order item?
Suits that are not of size will be out of the question no matter how to dress.
There is no particular attention on the body shape matched to the ready-made suit, if there are favorite suit makers, there is no problem at all there.
Think of the order suit for the following people.
· I do not have a suit of my choice
· Strong commitment to suits
· I want a suit by purpose
There are the following ways according to the way of making an order suit.
Because none is called an order suit, there is no rule on how to divide.
How to make this is not this street, but I will briefly explain.
· Pattern order
1. Suit selection
2.Measurement
3. Adjustment / completion
It is a method of choosing a suit of a size close and adjusting it partly.
Semi-order
1. Size measurement
2. Selection of paper pattern
3. Adjustment / completion
How to measure and combine sizes from several patterns.
· Full order
1. Size measurement
2. Pattern making
3. Preliminary sewing
4. Adjustment / completion
How to make a suit by raising a pattern, fine-adjusting the size by temporary sewing
I compiled the big difference making easily easily (an example)
| pattern order | semi order | full order | |
|---|---|---|---|
| price | 1 – 50 thousand | 4 – 200 thousand | 20 – 400 thousand |
| Delivery time | 2-4 weeks | 4-6 weeks | 4-8 weeks |
| Features | Fixed base | Partially clinged | Fabric etc. |
Because I am big, I could not find any suitable suit with ready-made items.
Even if found, there was not much attention to the fabric of the suit.
Therefore, I am making it an order suit right now.
Of course I have ready-made suit, but motivation when wearing and wearing is different.
I think that it is not easy to get a perfect suit with an order suit as well.
However, once you create an order you will find yourself in the next making.
Also, I think that knowledge of good things will accumulate.
Let’s wear a suit with size. Both ready-made goods and orders OK
How to dress suit · shirt
Manners in suit / shirt
Male
· Remove the bottom of the button
· Pocket lid (flap) all unified
If you can, we will have outdoor, we will put indoor
· Socks black socks
Let’s make the bare feet invisible when you bend your knees.
Women
· It is basic to have 1 or 2 buttons on blouse.
But even if I stop all it OK
This is not everything.
Manner will change depending on the place and circumstances.
Let’s understand each other and try to keep in mind.
The manner of manners change depending on places and circumstances.
Suit Accessory
By wearing accessories, impression is given that work and life are affordable in a good sense.
However, as a precaution, accessories in business are not emphasized as much as possible, but since it is not noticeable, it is the basis that makes it casually visible.
Male
The only things that can be worn as accessories visible from the outside in business are the following.
·Necktie pin
·Cufflinks button
·clock
·(wedding ring)
Women
Wearing type is abundant than men.
Therefore, I think that it is necessary to change the wearing type according to the place.
·Earrings
·necklace
·clock
·ring
·bracelet
Such
As I mentioned earlier, let’s basically use a type that is inconspicuous.
For earrings etc., let’s stop hanging type and big type.
Impression that accessories are affordable with good meaning. However, wearing inconspicuous items
Although the length has increased, the role of the suit in business is great.
I told you the first time, but it is said that it is 100 hours to correct the appearance impression when you first fit.
I hope everyone can start with a good impression from the beginning.
I am fortunate if I could help everyone.
